Peter Lindbergh. On Fashion Photography

When German photographer Peter Lindbergh captured the essence of five youthful models amidst the urban landscape of New York City in 1989, he not only crafted the iconic cover of British Vogue for January 1990 but also heralded the emergence of the supermodels. This image, a convergence of esteemed faces, served as a pivotal moment, signaling the dawn of a new era in fashion and a fresh perspective on feminine beauty.

Complementing his extensive retrospective at the Kunsthal in Rotterdam, Netherlands, this publication assembles over 400 images spanning four decades of Lindbergh's photographic oeuvre. It commemorates his distinctive and transformative narrative style, which infused art and fashion with a novel romanticism and storytelling prowess.

 

Whether through evocative solo portraits or immersive scenes blending figures with their environments, Lindbergh's work exhibits cinematic flair and a daring exploration of female archetypes. Subjects embody roles ranging from dancers to actresses, from heroines to femmes fatales. Simultaneously raw and captivating, Lindbergh's signature monochromatic compositions challenged conventional beauty standards by prioritizing character and individuality over mere physical appearance. His imagery exalted the grace and sensuality of mature women while championing authenticity and natural beauty in an era dominated by artificial enhancements.

 

In a testament to Lindbergh's esteemed position in the fashion realm, his photographs are accompanied by reflections from notable collaborators such as Jean Paul Gaultier, Nicole Kidman, Grace Coddington, Cindy Crawford, and Anna Wintour, the latter of whom entrusted Lindbergh with her inaugural cover shoot for US Vogue. Through their testimonials, we gain insight into what sets Lindbergh's work apart, illuminating its unparalleled uniqueness and enduring influence.